Strip enough wire sheathing to attach the wire, then remove a knockout slug and clamp the cable in place.Plan the routes for the ground, neutral, and black and red hot wires.When mounting the sub panel, make sure it’s about 1 foot away from the main service panel and measure how far each wire will need to travel.Nevertheless, here’s the general process of how our licensed electricians handle sub-panel wiring: Any mistakes can prevent the sub-panel from functioning or create a dangerous shock and fire hazard. We’re only breaking down the steps to give you an idea of how the process works. This stage of installing a sub-panel is not for the typical DIYer. The panel must be mounted to a permanent structure and where equipment cannot impact it. They should be placed in a sheltered, shaded area and at least 12 inches above where snow is likely to accumulate. Outdoor sub-panels are weather-resistant. Mounting must be done so the cover fits flush against the metal box once the drywall is installed. They must be attached to the structure and not mounted to drywall. Indoor sub-panels are usually mounted between 2 x 4 studs and are not weathertight. Always check the product rating to make sure you’re using the correct wires. For a six-space panel used indoors, a 100-amp wire size is needed, while a two-space outdoor panel can work with a 60, 100, or 200-amp wire. And make sure to use insulated electrical tools to avoid injury. Nonmetallic flexible cables must be used to carry ground wire, while an armored steel cable can be used as a grounded connection. Here are the appropriate sizes/amp ratings:Īlways use copper for a ground wire (and never as a neutral wire). Only 600-volt copper wire should be used. Tools you’ll need for installation include a screwdriver, hammer, voltage tester, flashlight, wire strippers, lineman’s pliers, and long-nose pliers.įor materials, you’ll need the sub-panel, mounting screws, a feeder cable approved for the application, staples or cable clamps, circuit breakers, and an approved feeder breaker. Grounds and neutrals can only be connected to the main panel. There is no main breaker here and the sub-panel must have separate bus bars for neutral and ground wires. The main panel’s feeder breaker works as the main disconnect for the subunit. It’s also beneficial if your existing electrical panel doesn’t have room for new breakers. This component is suited for homes that can’t accommodate tandem circuit breakers, which allow two circuits to be controlled from one slot. However, we’ll explain the basics of sub-panel installation to help you understand what it involves. It’s best to hire an electrical contractor, as this project entails working with wiring and other high-voltage electrical components. To connect the two panels, you’ll need a thick three-wire cable. You can probably use their website’s to budget.You might need a sub-panel if there aren’t enough circuit breakers in your main electrical service panel. I’m sure Home Depot and Lowe’s type series stock it as well. Any local electrical parts supplier will have it by the foot. I would also run a 3/4” conduit, properly spaced, in the same trench in case you want to add a data line in the future as well.Įdit: if the subpanel is in the same building as the main panel, and it is a house, 2-2-2-4 aluminum SER cable is the correct product. Though I would personally use 1 1/2” pvc in case you want to add any switching from the house to the outbuilding in the future. 1 1/4” pvc conduit is the correct size for this run if done in aluminum xhhw wire. Whether you use copper or aluminum, per code you must run 2 hot conductors, a white or white trace neutral conductor, and a bare or green ground wire. If this is a house and you’re not married to using copper, #2 aluminum is the proper size.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |